Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener
The Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener makes sharpening your chainsaw much easier and more precise. The Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener lets you sharpen your chain on the job. Allowing you to work faster, smarter. The tool comes with everything you need to sharpen your saw. Included is a durable carry case with shoulder strap and belt loop. The carbide cutters used with the Timberline are interchangeable and are purchased separately.
How Does it Work? The key to the tool is a solid platform that won’t bend, flex, or otherwise move during sharpening. This acts as a fixed guide to sharpen each cutting tooth accurately on the chain with little or no deviation.
Each tooth is sharpened individually with the carbide cutter fitted on a hand crank. An adjustable stop or paul pushes the chain forward into the carbide cutter and thus sets the length of each cutting tooth.
Angles are set for the user at a standard 30˚ More experienced and professional users may be interested in the optional 25˚/35˚ angle guides for optimal cutting specific to hard, dense wood or soft, dry wood.
- Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener can be used on virtually all chainsaws.
- 3/8″ pitch requires 7/32″ carbide cutter (or 13/64″ if the manufacturer suggests)
- .325″ pitch requires 3/16″ carbide cutter
- 3/8″ Low Profile pitch requires 5/32″ carbide cutter
- Tool Weight: 0.95 lbs. (15.25oz)
Carbide Wear Carbides experience most wear the first time a chain is sharpened. This is due to the carbide not seating properly and binding in the hook of the chain. To avoid this, seat the carbide into the chain by leaving the side knobs loose on the sharpener. Sharpen each tooth of the chain very slightly. You will hear/feel a chatter as the carbide spins which will smooth out as the hook of the chain shapes to the contour of the carbide. This is only necessary the first time a chain is sharpened.
Level Sharpener One of the most common mistakes users make when first using the sharpener is not leveling it correctly on the bar. This will cause the carbide to not fit correctly when sharpening the opposite side teeth. First, as the sharpener rocks on the carbide try to visually level the sharpener flat on the bar and tighten the side screws. Remove carbide, pull chain forward to the next opposite cutting tooth and try to insert carbide in the corresponding guide. If it doesn’t fit, loosen the side screw directly across and move the sharpener up or down as needed to allow the carbide to be fully inserted.
Sharpen One Side At A Time By sharpening every other tooth you don’t have to fully remove the carbide from the guide. This is much faster and allows you to have two free hands to pull the chain forward to the next tooth.
Chain Not Cutting If the chain is sharp, but doesn’t feel like it is cutting then the depth gauges or rakers need to be lowered. This is the “shark fin” shape directly in front of each cutting tooth. It’s purpose is to limit how deep the cutting tooth dives into the wood. As the chain is sharpened not only the length, but also the height is shortened. Eventually these also need to be lowered. Using a flat file, about 2 stokes off the top of each depth gauge is all that is needed. Lowering the depth gauges too much will cause the cutting teeth to take too big of a bite and make the saw jam or worse jump.
Not Cutting Straight Uneven cutting teeth is often the cause. If one side of the chain has longer cutting teeth they will take a bigger bite out of the wood than the shorter teeth. If the chain is cutting to the left that means the right teeth on the chain are longer, and vise versa. To correct, sharpen only the side with the longer teeth. If the bar has worn unevenly it will also cause the chain to not cut straight.
Even Length Cutting Teeth Depending on the size of chainsaw, it may be required to sharpen all teeth on the right side before switching to the left side. This is due to smaller saws having a thinner bar which shifts the path of the carbide and moves the intersection point off center. To adjust for this offset, simply readjust or loosen the rear thumbscrew so that the chain is sharpened evenly. By first working the right side teeth and then switching to the left the rear thumbscrew should only need to be re adjusted once.
A Note From Our Chainsaw Tech "The unit sets up fairly quickly, the only tricky part is getting the front and back arches set so both pass the chain. It took me two tries the first time I used the unit. I set it up on a MS460 with a 28" bar. The chain was well used, and had been filed by an amateur. The angles were all wrong and the teeth were different lengths. I had to make two passes with the machine. The cutter bit only takes a little at a time and because the teeth were so out of whack it took two passes. That part was frustrating, however the finish product is a tooth with a factory edge. Time to sharpen depends on the dullness of your chain. It took me 33 minutes to sharpen the above chain, this being the first time I have ever used this machine. My advice is to sharpen chains which have not been filed by hand. You will be starting with teeth that are all the same size and angle, which will make the process much quicker. The edge put on the tooth is better than that made with a file and has stone grinders beat hands down."
4.2 out of 5 star average customer rating based on 13 reviews - See all reviews
The best sharpener - 02/27/2016
Reviewer: Justin K.
This sharpener delivers a sharper than factory edge. I'm a very particular person and love this tools precision. I would recommend this to anyone.
Precision Instrument! - 01/07/2016
Reviewer: Chad U.
I recently purchased the Timberline after being repeatedly disappointed by sub-par sharpening by a local saw shop, and the hassle involved with being able to go when they were open. I am not skilled at hand filing, and with talking with many skilled arborists, even the best hand filers can never get each tooth on a chain perfect and all the same. With the Timberline, each tooth can be filed exactly the same with confidence. I'm amazed at how sharp my chains are now. Even with the local saw shop using a grinder, it doesn't even compare. I'm talking sharper than when they were brand new! I had to have 3 different carbide sizes to sharpen all of my saws which was an added cost, but I'm amazed at the results! It does take a couple of minutes to get it set up correctly on the saw the first time, but once it's adjusted right, you can sharpen the whole chain without removing it. I'm a perfectionist by nature, so the precision it took to set it up was not a big deal to me. I can see how someone with little patience would get frustrated though. It's also great for when an inexperienced ground guy runs the saw in the dirt. Now I can sharpen it on-site. The first time I set it up, it took me about 30 minutes from start to finishing sharpening. Now it only takes me about 20 minutes to put it on and sharpen. Definitely worth the price. You'll be amazed with the results!
Very Good Sharpener - 01/03/2016
I like this sharpener a lot. It sharpens chain real sharp like factor sharp. Easy to use just have to get to set it correctly on bar. Can easily have real sharp teeth all the same and uniform. The only real down side is the carbide cutters are brittle they will easily break my 5/32 carbide slipped out of my hand in my garage and fell on concrete floor and broke. But i do like the way it sharpens.
WORKS GOOD - 12/14/2015
I got the 13/64 carbide to go with my 3/8 STHIL chain and it works great.I was careful the first time I used it because of reports of damaging the carbide but I didn't have any problems.
Chainsaw Sharpener for Dummies! - 12/06/2015
Great tool. At my day job we occasionally use chain saws. In the past when a chain would become dull, the crew was instructed to take it off and replace with a sharp one and we would send it out to the saw shop, instead of tiring to teach everyone how to use a file. After a 5 minute in service with all the crews, we put one on each apparatus and rarely ever change the chains any more. Easy to use. You must follow the instructions. Different size chains require different bits and angle guides.