- Sales & Specials ! ! !
- Arborwear Clothes
- Books & Research
- Bucket Truck Gear
- Cabling & Bracing
- Chains & Bars
- Chainsaws & Gear
- Chainsaw Parts
- Chipper Knives
- Climbing Gear
- Forestry & Axes
- Gifts & Novelties
- Green Teeth
- Jobsite Tools
- Plant Health Care
- Planting & Staking
- Saddles & Harnesses
- Safety Supplies
- Saws & Pruners
- WHAT’S NEW
Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener
The Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener makes sharpening your chainsaw much easier and more precise. The Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener lets you sharpen your chain on the job. Allowing you to work faster, smarter. The tool comes with everything you need to sharpen your saw. Included is a durable carry case with shoulder strap and belt loop. Includes one size carbide cutter. Additional carbide cutters are interchangeable and may be purchased separately.
How Does it Work? The key to the tool is a solid platform that won’t bend, flex, or otherwise move during sharpening. This acts as a fixed guide to sharpen each cutting tooth accurately on the chain with little or no deviation.
Each tooth is sharpened individually with the included carbide cutter fitted on a hand crank. An adjustable stop or paul pushes the chain forward into the carbide cutter and thus sets the length of each cutting tooth.
Angles are set for the user at a standard 30˚ More experienced and professional users may be interested in the optional 25˚/35˚ angle guides for optimal cutting specific to hard, dense wood or soft, dry wood.
- Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener can be used on virtually all chainsaws.
- 3/8″ pitch requires 7/32″ carbide cutter (or 13/64″ if the manufacturer suggests)
- .325″ pitch requires 3/16″ carbide cutter
- 3/8″ Low Profile pitch requires 5/32″ carbide cutter
- Tool Weight: 0.95 lbs. (15.25oz)
Carbide Wear Carbides experience most wear the first time a chain is sharpened. This is due to the carbide not seating properly and binding in the hook of the chain. To avoid this, seat the carbide into the chain by leaving the side knobs loose on the sharpener. Sharpen each tooth of the chain very slightly. You will hear/feel a chatter as the carbide spins which will smooth out as the hook of the chain shapes to the contour of the carbide. This is only necessary the first time a chain is sharpened.
Level Sharpener One of the most common mistakes users make when first using the sharpener is not leveling it correctly on the bar. This will cause the carbide to not fit correctly when sharpening the opposite side teeth. First, as the sharpener rocks on the carbide try to visually level the sharpener flat on the bar and tighten the side screws. Remove carbide, pull chain forward to the next opposite cutting tooth and try to insert carbide in the corresponding guide. If it doesn’t fit, loosen the side screw directly across and move the sharpener up or down as needed to allow the carbide to be fully inserted.
Sharpen One Side At A Time By sharpening every other tooth you don’t have to fully remove the carbide from the guide. This is much faster and allows you to have two free hands to pull the chain forward to the next tooth.
Chain Not Cutting If the chain is sharp, but doesn’t feel like it is cutting then the depth gauges or rakers need to be lowered. This is the “shark fin” shape directly in front of each cutting tooth. It’s purpose is to limit how deep the cutting tooth dives into the wood. As the chain is sharpened not only the length, but also the height is shortened. Eventually these also need to be lowered. Using a flat file, about 2 stokes off the top of each depth gauge is all that is needed. Lowering the depth gauges too much will cause the cutting teeth to take too big of a bite and make the saw jam or worse jump.
Not Cutting Straight Uneven cutting teeth is often the cause. If one side of the chain has longer cutting teeth they will take a bigger bite out of the wood than the shorter teeth. If the chain is cutting to the left that means the right teeth on the chain are longer, and vise versa. To correct, sharpen only the side with the longer teeth. If the bar has worn unevenly it will also cause the chain to not cut straight.
Even Length Cutting Teeth Depending on the size of chainsaw, it may be required to sharpen all teeth on the right side before switching to the left side. This is due to smaller saws having a thinner bar which shifts the path of the carbide and moves the intersection point off center. To adjust for this offset, simply readjust or loosen the rear thumbscrew so that the chain is sharpened evenly. By first working the right side teeth and then switching to the left the rear thumbscrew should only need to be re adjusted once.
A Note From Our Chainsaw Tech "The unit sets up fairly quickly, the only tricky part is getting the front and back arches set so both pass the chain. It took me two tries the first time I used the unit. I set it up on a MS460 with a 28" bar. The chain was well used, and had been filed by an amateur. The angles were all wrong and the teeth were different lengths. I had to make two passes with the machine. The cutter bit only takes a little at a time and because the teeth were so out of whack it took two passes. That part was frustrating, however the finish product is a tooth with a factory edge. Time to sharpen depends on the dullness of your chain. It took me 33 minutes to sharpen the above chain, this being the first time I have ever used this machine. My advice is to sharpen chains which have not been filed by hand. You will be starting with teeth that are all the same size and angle, which will make the process much quicker. The edge put on the tooth is better than that made with a file and has stone grinders beat hands down."
average customer rating based on 2 reviewsIt's ok I guess - 12/04/2013
Reviewer: John Fontenot
It's not horrible, but it still takes a lot of attention. This is not a tool where you can set it up and then kick back and enjoy the radio. My best results have been from placing this tool between my powerhead and the vice. Even then the bar still wanders a bit if you put any real force behind it. Not to mention it's more awkward then when it is at the end of the bar. I tend to use this about as gently as a regular file, and I inspect each tooth almost as much as I do when using a regular file.
The angle it comes with confuses me as well. My chain should have been new and set at 30 degrees. It sure looked like it. This tool says it is angled at 30 degrees. However after three passes there is considerable shavings where the tooth turns a corner, but the belly of the tooth is still untouched. So one of them is not 30 degrees.
It is a robust tool, and I always like that. The aluminum will scratch and ding, but I believe that it will hold up. I was disappointed in the plastic knobs though. A lot of trouble went into building it tough, only to take a nap on the parts you actually touch. I'm machining some new ones out of brass, and hopefully it won't be to heavy. If so there is aluminum.
The case is a cheap padded camera case. It will not last more than a few years. Or a week after I forget to clean metal shavings off before packing it away.
It would be good for kids. Quality Product and a Sharp Chain - 03/19/2013
I got one of these about a year ago and used it for a while but ended up going back to filing with a "Swedish" roller guide.
It's a good product and will produce a near perfect sharpening but I found it was just too fiddly for me. It took me too long to get it setup correctly and then once it was setup it kept getting out of adjustment. I think I was pushing too hard or was trying to take off too much in one pass and that made it move on the bar. I just couldn't get the hang of it. I never really got good with it and eventually found myself going back to the file all the time.
So anyway, not a bad tool but the better sharpening it gave over the file wasn't worth the extra time to me.